Tuesday, 8 September 2020

Just a quick update on the NOBX project.

All the underfloor detail including the steps from the original Auscision NOBX have been fitted back pretty much how it was on the RTR model. I had to make up some supports for some components, but it was fairly straight forward process. As the couplers boxes were part of the original body, I used ones provided but Kadee and fitted Number 58's. 

I finished the process of fitting the brackets for the tarp supports. I cut lengths of 5 thou. Styrene and drilled a 1mm hole in these. I then glued them in place trimming the access off.  

This is a method I use quite a bit. Adding the styrene in a way that I can hold it in place easily. Then when dry cut off the access.


There is one little detail that I haven't added as yet. These are brackets/ tie downs fitted in the corners of the wagon. I am going to wait till I have all the timbers are test fitted before adding this detail. The model now has a cote of Primmer applied. I now need to start the process of painting and weathering. I am basing the wagon on the one in the back ground photo.

Cheers for now

Justin Moy

 

 

Wednesday, 2 September 2020

Auscision 8010


A little while ago I got my hands on this Auscision 8010. I am pretty Familiar with 80 class loco's. I have worked on a number of Austrain's 80's over the years even going to the trouble of Super detailing one. If you look back a way on my Blog I did one about this, I think it was called "Making 8002". So anyway when I got my hands on this model, I was very keen to go over it in detail to see just how good it was. Things have come a long way since the Austrain's 80 come onto the market. Back then I think I paid $150 for my first 80. At $335 off the shelf for this or $295 pre-ordered you would expect there would be major improvements. It is done well and at the end of the day you are getting what you paid for with this model. 

I always look at ways I can improve a model. In order to do this I first look for any mistakes that I can fix. I have no problems letting fellow modelers know of any things that could be corrected and if I can offer ways that this can be done. The wiring side I am not interested in so I really don't want to comment there. My model is DC and runs fine. I have seen and heard the DCC sound option running and it sounds great. Detail wise is my interest. 


Detail wise the model is great, If I could of done as good a job super detailing an Austrain's 80 it would be a sight to behold. The detail is all there. The only issue is keeping it on there. It is a fine detailed model and at the end of the day needs to be treated that way, but I'm F#@&ed if I know where one of my bogie steps went? That is one little detail to talk about first. It appears that the bogie steps are mounted outward a bit too far. The side frames may be related to the 442 ones. As the 442 model come first, the steps on the 80 model are in the same position as the jumbo. In reality the 80 has a larger cab and the steps are mount further back on an 80 due to this.

you can see in this photo the step doesn't line up with the cab door and should be mounted a little closer to the brake cylinder.


You can see in this photo where the step is mounted

Also in this photo look at the space between the wheel journals and the bottom keeper plate under-neigh. On the model this looks excessive. I am sure that both of these would not be hard to fix?

Now these are cosmetic considerations. The split in the Main Air Tanks. I am sure the factory would of had a reason to do them this way but I am going to do some filling and sanding on this one. Just under the fuel filler there is a separate little piece there that just doesn't look right so I am going to work on a fix there. These are just small little things that I want to fix to have as good a model as possible. 

Here is a couple of shots as reference


The detail is all there. It is impressive no doubt. I am looking forward to the weathering process to enhance this even more.








So that is the Chassis basically covered. 

The body has all the detail that is expected 




It has the see through brass mesh where required, metal hand rails, mirrors all that one would expect. No issues there. The only thing that I could fault regard the body is the windscreens. There is an issue there.





They are a little off shape. They are OK with the width but the top of the windscreen sits too high.
  



If you study these examples you can see the shape is just not right. The windscreen rubber at the top so about the same height as the gutters at the side of the cab. On the model if you refer to this, it is well above this point (please see second photo). I don't know how to fix this one. It does distract from the model in my view. It is one of those things that you look and it doesn't look quite right, but at first you can't put a finger on it. I will figure it out some how. As far as I can tell all 80's windscreens were like this. I know that 8030 and 8049 have newer slightly different shaped windscreens fitted that sit higher after they entered private ownership. 

Also there is a little cut out at the bottom of the head stock just about the coupler that I am going to enlarge a little for appearance as well 

 

My plan is to have my 8010 look somewhere like in these two photos. To do this I will need to remove the Bicentennial boards off the sides. On the Austrain's model this was easy. Lets see how this one turns out.



Anyway that is all I can think about for now. It is a fine model. I don't want anyone to think that I have an  agenda. I just want to talk about my modelling pursuits and this is what I am going to do to this model so when I have my layout running, the photo's will be exceptional. I have been working on an Auscision 442 as well. I will talk about that soon.


Cheers for now

Justin Moy
 

Sunday, 30 August 2020

 My Ultimate 81 class 



Hi Guy's 
I have had this 81 class pretty finished for over a year now. I mainly wanted it running at last years NSWDEM running day. This was featured in a previous blog. There is a lot to talk about with this model. It has stemmed from a want to make a good representation of a 81 class at the time. 

Over the years there has been quite a few models of the State Rail 81 class come out on the Market. I think first may of been the Classic Brass 81 class. Then around 1987 AR Kits come out with a plastic Kit as such and 1988 Powerline introduced there RTR plastic 81 class. I could not afford a Brass 81 at the time, which was what you would expect from Brass. The Mech. in the Powerline Model was a toy, The AR Mech. being K&M was basically brass but I didn't like the cabs on the Model. That said over the years I have repowered a number of Powerline Models and did up some AR Models. But I have never really like their presentation of an 81 class.


  This is a Powerline 81 class sitting on an L&C Kits Chassis with an Austrain's C Class Mechanism. It has AR Kits side frames fitted. I did this model around 20 years ago.


   This is an Example of an AR Kits 81 class.

Then came the Austrains 81 class

What a disappointment that was!!!!!!!

Modeler's waited quite some time for it.

Then when it arrived even Austrains stated that the Candy 81 model was just not good enough and offered refunds to prepaid orders and then offered the balance of models at the discounted rate if memory serves me correctly. I am pretty sure I purchased mine for $175.00 at the time. Anyway I looked at the positives, it had a nice running mechanism and some details were correct. It sat for a couple of years then I started taking a closer look at it. 

I looked at all the bits n pieces that I had laying around. What could I do to this model to make improvements? Well there was a long list. I hope I don't bore you all with this.

At first I looked at plenty of 81 class photo's to compare details. First issue tackled was filling in the extra door. When 81 classes all went for their 10 year CCO at Bathurst an extra engine room door was fitted. They were also repainted into the Freight Rail Blue Livery. Thus no Candy 81's had this door fitted. I happen to have some undecorated bodies that I acquired so I removed the necessary pieces to then replace this door with a port hole.


 
Another issue was the body height. Due to this the Candy strips were applied incorrectly. The Candy yellow strip run too low and along the chassis part and not at the bottom of the lift out sections. looking into what may of caused this, it become necessary to add 1mm of height to the body above the frame as such. This was achieved using 1 by 1.5 mm Styrene.
This was placed between the Chassis and body. This is places made up the area for the correct placement of the yellow line.



 The Orange line will now be around the correct width also after this Modification.


At one point I was going to correct the drop down in the chassis above the fuel tank which was excessive. At first I tried cutting that section out and place a new piece from another body at the correct height. I was then going to add new correct sized foot holes for the cab and the lifting points cut from a Powerline body.

Powerline foot hole and lifting point added. In the photo you can see the main air intake and the extra intake on the mansard each side of the exhaust. This was features after the 10 year CCO and incorrect on a Candy 81.

As they were before


I had to cut the main air intake out of an AR Kits body that I had to make it the early version intake so I decided to also use the chassis section from the AR model as well.


This is the result after I added the AR Kits frame and air intake. In this photo you can also see where I added the 1mm styrene to the body. I have also covered over the extra intake near the exhaust with thin styrene. I still used the original pilot. I had it sitting on an AR Kits provided K&M Mechanism at this point for posing purposes. The Air intake had also been replaced with a Brass Etch that I got with a G Class detailing kit. The original sat too low and just didn't look right. Another Modification was a lowing of the AC units. This was aided by having spares on hand.


Next step I cut out the main radiator section and rebuilt it. I lowered the fans by about a 1mm as they sat to high






   
Photo's didn't go on in order but you can see what I am about here. I also raised the height of the fuel tank by about 1mm as it sat too low and I moved the battery boxes in a bit too.


I also filled in the little cut outs at the bottom of the pilots that are there to aid chassis removal. Not done as yet in this photo.

Other Modifications include;

#    added to the length of the head stocks above the couplers. 
#    added brass Air Horns
#    changed the exhaust casting
#    added white metal MU hoses and brass covers over the dummy MU points
   added AR kits Hand Brake wheels to the bogie side frames
#    I added new number decals to the sides and new L7 logos. I had trouble with these failing and touch       up with paint which doesn't look the best. I may readdress this later.

That is all I can think of for now

The only misgiving I have with this project is I really only did touch ups on the paint work as I went. I should of did more masking and Air Brush work. It shows esp. when I was editing photos for this Blog.

I have had a chance to see the progress of the SDS Models 81 project. All the issues that I have chose to address on this Austrains 81 have been address as far as I can tell on the SDS model so it will be worth the wait. Covid issues no doubt will have slowed it down but it will be worth the wait.

Some Photo's to end










Cheers Justin Moy